Effect of Different Weft Yarns, Twill Direction, and Washing Methods on Objective Hand Values of Denim Fabrics

ABSTRACT

Denim fabrics are products that provide durability and ease of use, and are used by young people or people of all ages who prefer comfortable wear in daily life. In this study, the objective hand values of denim fabrics with three weft yarn types (100% cotton elastane, 85% cotton 15% Modal elastane, and 85% cotton 15% Tencel elastane), two twill directions (3/1 Z and S), and four washing processes (bleach, enzyme, rinse, and stone) were investigated. For this purpose, the compressibility, overall flexural rigidity, drape, surface roughness, and shear rigidity values of industrial washed denim fabrics were measured. It was found that there was no statistically significant effect of weft yarn type on objective hand values, and washing differences were statistically significant on the objective hand values of the denim fabrics. The results showed that enzyme-washed fabrics show better hand and lower hardness properties; stone-washed fabrics have a higher fluffy feel, bleach-washed fabrics have worse hand, and rinse-washed fabrics have stiffer and rougher surfaces. It was also observed that the twill direction affects only the shear rigidity values of the denim fabrics.

摘要

牛仔面料是一种具有耐用性和易用性的产品，供年轻人或在日常生活中喜欢舒适穿着的所有年龄段的人使用. 在本研究中，研究了三种纬纱类型（100%棉弹性纤维、85%棉15%莫代尔弹性纤维和85%棉15%天丝弹性纤维）、两种斜纹方向（3/1 Z和S）和四种洗涤工艺（漂白、酶、漂洗和磨石）的牛仔布织物的客观手值. 为此，测量了工业洗涤牛仔布的压缩性、整体弯曲刚度、悬垂性、表面粗糙度和剪切刚度. 研究发现，纬纱类型对牛仔布的客观手值没有统计学显著影响，洗涤差异对牛仔织物的客观手数值有统计学显著影响. 结果表明，酶洗织物具有较好的手感和较低的硬度; 石头洗的织物有更高的蓬松感，漂白过的织物手感更差，漂洗过的织品表面更硬、更粗糙. 还观察到斜纹方向只影响牛仔布织物的剪切刚度值.

KEYWORDS:

• Denim
• industrial washings
• Tencel and modal yarn
• objective hand

关键词:

• 蓝粗棉布
• 工业洗涤
• 天丝和莫代尔纱线
• 客观的手

Highlights

1. New generation fibers with known comfort properties such as Tencel and Modal have been used in the denim fabric structure,

2. It was found, there was no statistically significant effect of weft yarn differences on the objective hand values of denim fabrics.

3. It was seen that the parameter that affects the objective hand value was the washing type.

4. The twill direction has an effect on shear rigidity values.

5. It can be said that the use of Tencel increases sewability by decreasing the drape value,

6. The use of Modal creates a smoother surface by reducing the surface roughness.

7. Stone washing fabrics have a softer hand and easy sewability

Acknowledgements

This work was supported by the TÜBİTAK 1505 - University-Industry Cooperation Support Program with the ISKUR Denim Kahramanmaraş and Bursa Uludag University partnership (Project number 5210060).

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the authors.

Additional information

Funding

The work was supported by The Scientific and Technological Research Council of Türkiye [Project number: 5210060] and Iskur Denim Kahramanmaraş.