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ABSTRACT
Giant goldenrod (S. gigantea Aiton) is considered an invasive weed in Europe, Asia, Australia, and New Zealand. In this research, the untreated and chitosan-treated cotton fabrics were functionalized with goldenrod inflorescences aqueous extract, at room temperature and 95°C. Zeta potential of fabrics was determined as a function of pH and the results showed an increased isoelectric point from 2.50 to 5.25 and amphoteric character of the chitosan-treated sample. The antioxidant activity (AA) of extract and functionalized fabrics was determined using DPPH analysis, while color and ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) were determined spectroscopically before and after wash and lightfastness testing. The chitosan pretreatment and dyeing of cotton at higher temperature increased AA (from 41.19 ± 0.28 to 56.08 ± 0.25), UPF (from 33.05 to 51.59) and color strength (K/S) (from 1.74 to 2.21), providing dyed cotton with excellent UV protection and a free radical inhibition activity. The samples had good wash fastness in terms of color (ΔEab* < 1), but not in terms of UV protection (UPF value decreased after washing to 23.47). The overall lightfastness was good to excellent (the UPF values of chitosan and dyed samples did not change much after lightfastness test (UPF = 51.75).
摘要
巨型一枝黄花（S.gigantea Aiton）在欧洲、亚洲、澳大利亚和新西兰被认为是一种入侵杂草. 在本研究中，在室温和95°C下，用一枝黄花花序水提取物对未处理和壳聚糖处理的棉织物进行功能化. 测定了织物的ζ电位作为pH的函数，结果表明，壳聚糖处理的样品的等电点从2.50增加到5.25，并且具有两性性质. 使用DPPH分析法测定提取物和功能化织物的抗氧化活性（AA），同时在洗涤和耐光牢度测试前后用光谱法测定颜色和紫外线保护因子（UPF）. 壳聚糖预处理和高温染色提高了AA（从41.19 ± 0.28提高到56.08 ± 0.25）、UPF（从33.05提高到51.59）和色强度（K/S）（从1.74提高到2.21），为染色棉提供了良好的紫外线防护和自由基抑制活性. 样品在颜色方面具有良好的洗涤牢度（ΔEab*<1），但在紫外线防护方面没有（洗涤后UPF值降至23.47）. 整体耐光性从好到优（壳聚糖和染色样品的UPF值在耐光性测试后变化不大（UPF = 51.75）.
Highlights
Cotton fabric with antioxidant and UV-protective properties was developed by functionalization with chitosan and giant goldenrod extract.
Bio-mordanting with chitosan changed the surface charge of cotton, making it amphoteric.
Combination of bio-mordanting and dyeing at high temperature (95°C) results in excellent UV protective properties (UPF 50+) and antioxidant activity of cotton.
The samples had good color fastness but poor UV protection fastness after washing and excellent UV protection after lightfastness test.
Acknowledgements
The authors would like to thank Tjaša Kraševac Glaser for valuable assistance with surface zeta potential measurements.
Disclosure statement
No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).
Author’s contributions
Conceptualization, M.G.; Formal analysis, S.Š., A.V., L.F.S.; Funding acquisition, M.G., L.F.S.; Investigation, S.Š.; Methodology, M.G., S.Š.; Supervision, M.G.; Writing – original draft, S.Š., M.G., L.F.S.; Writing – review and editing, S.Š., A.V., L.F.S. and M.G. All authors have read and agreed to the published version of the manuscript.