Investigating the Effect of Elastane Use on Tailorability and Appearance of Wool and Wool Blend Suiting Fabrics

ABSTRACT

In this study, the effect of the use of elastane on the tailorability and appearance of 100% wool and different proportions of wool – man-made fiber blended worsted suiting fabrics was investigated. The evaluations were made by means of mechanical properties. Although the amount of elastane used in the weft yarn of elastane-containing fabrics differed in each group, it was observed that the effect of elastane varied mainly depending on the fabric weight. It was seen that the use of elastane increased the bending rigidity for heavy weight (290 g/m² and above) fabric groups (groups 1 and 6) and negatively affected tailorability due to low shear rigidity for fabrics other than these groups. Except for the group with low fabric weight, all groups were found to improve the appearance in both weft and warp directions. However, it was concluded that fabrics containing 7% or more elastane in the weft may have a seam puckering problem due to low formability in the warp direction. The effect of elastane on extensibility was found to be influenced by fabric density, elastane content and construction in addition to fabric weight. The low fabric density and weight caused excessive extensibility, resulting in very poor tailorability.

摘要

研究了弹性纤维的使用对100%羊毛和不同比例羊毛-人造纤维混纺精纺西装面料的可裁剪性和外观的影响. 通过机械性能进行评估. 尽管含弹性纤维织物的纬纱中使用的弹性纤维的量在每组中不同，但观察到弹性纤维的效果主要取决于织物的重量. 可以看出，弹性纤维的使用增加了重重量（290 g/m² 及以上）织物组（第1组和第6组）的弯曲刚度，并且由于这些组以外的织物的低剪切刚度而对可裁剪性产生了负面影响. 除了织物重量较低的组外，所有组都能改善纬纱和经纱的外观. 然而，得出的结论是，纬纱中含有7%或更多弹性纤维的织物可能由于在经纱方向上的低成形性而具有接缝褶皱问题. 弹性纤维对延展性的影响受织物密度、弹性纤维含量和结构以及织物重量的影响. 织物密度和重量低导致延展性过大，导致可裁剪性非常差.

KEYWORDS:

• Tailorability
• elastane
• appearance
• suiting fabrics
• woolen fabrics
• mechanical properties

关键词:

• 可定制性
• 弹性纤维
• 外貌
• 西装面料
• 羊毛织物
• 机械性能

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).