Effect of Weft Yarn Type and Weaving Parameters on Surface Roughness and Drapeability of Woven Fabric

ABSTRACT

Comfort is a qualitative feature and one of the requirements that modern garment buyers place on their purchases. The purpose of this work is to study the effect of weft yarn type, weft yarn tension, warp yarn tension, and weft density on drape and surface roughness properties of cotton plain woven fabric. Each factor was treated at two levels such as yarn type (ring-spun and rotor-spun), warp tension (1 kN and 2 kN), weft tension (PFT/B- and PFT/B+T) and weft density (14 picks/centimeter (PPC) and 18 PPC). Full factorial design was used to design the experiment and analyze the results of the experiment. The results of the analysis showed that fabric produced from ring-spun yarn has smoother surface and better drape than fabric produced from rotor spun yarn. As weft and warp yarn tension increased, the surface roughness of the fabric increased and fabric drape decreased. On the other hand, fabric drape decreased as the weft density increased and the surface roughness of the fabric increase as weft density decreased.

摘要

舒适性是现代服装购买者在购买时的一个质的特征和要求之一. 研究了纬纱种类、纬纱张力、经纱张力和纬纱密度对纯棉平纹织物悬垂性和表面粗糙度的影响. 每个因素在两个水平上进行处理，如纱线类型（环锭纺和转杯纺）、经线张力（1kN和2kN）、纬线张力（PFT/B-和PFT/B+T）和纬线密度（14纬/厘米（PPC）和18PPC）. 采用全因子设计对实验进行设计，并对实验结果进行分析. 分析结果表明，环锭纱织物比转杯纱织物具有更光滑的表面和更好的悬垂性. 当纬纱和经纱张力增加时，织物表面粗糙度增加，悬垂性降低. 另一方面，织物悬垂性随着纬纱密度的增加而降低，织物表面粗糙度随着纬纱浓度的降低而增加.

KEYWORDS:

• Fabric drape
• surface roughness
• sensorial comfort
• yarn tension
• yarn type
• weft density

关键词:

• 织物悬垂性
• 表面粗糙度
• 感官舒适
• 纱线张力
• 纱线类型
• weft density纬纱密度

Highlights

• Comfort is a qualitative feature and one of the requirements that modern garment buyers place on their purchases.

• The results of the experiment revealed that fabric produced from ring-spun weft yarn shows better drape and surface roughness properties than fabric produced form rotor spun yarn.

• Fabric made from ring-spun yarn has smoother surface and highly drape able than fabric made from rotor-spun yarn.

• When the warp and weft yarn tension increased, surface roughness properties of the fabric increased and, the drape of fabric decreased significantly.

• While the weft density increases the fabric sample stiffness and surface roughness increased.

Acknowledgments

The authors would like to acknowledge the Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology, Bahir Dar University, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia for the support of this project.

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).

Author’s contribution

Author1: Andebet Kassaw: Data collection, designing the experiment, conducting the experiment, and analysis of data

Author 2: Million Ayele: Conception or design, writing the manuscript, and final approval of the version to be published.

Ethical approval

All content of this research didn’t involve human or animal use.