Swell and wind-sea partitioning of HF radar directional spectra

ABSTRACT

Partitioning is a process used to separate wind-sea and swell contributions in an ocean wave directional spectrum to simplify, and hence make more useful, the interpretation of the spectrum for users of wave data. HF radar systems can measure the wave spectrum over regions of the coastal ocean from the coast to over 100 km offshore with good spatial and temporal resolution depending on the operating frequency and bandwidth. Such systems can measure hundreds of directional spectra across the field of view of the radar, so there is very strong motivation to reduce the dimensionality of the data set for practical applications using partitioning. For similar reasons partitioning methods are increasingly being used for wave model and satellite-measured spectra. A partitioning method, which extends the method of Waters J, Wyatt LR, Wolf J, Hines A. [2013. Data assimilation of partitioned HF radar wave data into Wavewatch III. Ocean Model. 72:17–31.] for HF radar data, is described, assessed using buoy data and used to demonstrate the spatial variability of both swell and wind waves in three coastal regions. The results are very encouraging. HF radar systems could therefore provide very useful data for wave model and satellite partitioning validations in coastal waters where model and satellite measurements are most challenged by wave-current interactions, coastal topography and bathymetry.

Acknowledgement

The University of Plymouth radar and buoy data were provided by Daniel Conley with financial support from the Natural Environment Research Council [grant number NE/J004219/1]. The Norwegian data were obtained during the EU-funded EuroROSE project and provided by Klaus Werner Gurgel, University of Hamburg. The Pisces Celtic Sea data were provided by Neptune Radar and collected during a project funded by DEFRA and the Met Office.

Disclosure statement

Lucy Wyatt and Jim Green are founders and part-owners of Seaview Sensing Ltd. Both have a history of publications that demonstrate objective scientific research. The company may benefit from the research results presented here.

Additional information

Funding

This work was funded by the University of Sheffield and Seaview Sensing Ltd.

Notes on contributors

Lucy R. Wyatt

Lucy R. Wyatt: BSc Mathematics, MSc Fluid Mechanics, PhD Physical Oceanography. Research experience at Johns Hopkins University, USA, Reading and Birmingham Universities UK, ACORN Director James Cook University Australia. Lecturer, Senior Lecturer, Reader, Professor, Emeritus Professor University of Sheffield. Co-founder and Technical Director Seaview Sensing Ltd.

J. J. Green

J. J. Green: Doctorate in Mathematics, researcher at the National Physical Laboratory, University of Sheffield, l'Observatoire de Paris; Currently Senior ML engineer at Dressipi, London; Co-founder, and Software Developer Seaview Sensing Ltd.