The Lives behind the Luxurious Threads: Beleaguered Sustainability of Kashmir’s Pashmina Artisans

Abstract

Kashmir pashmina, sometimes referred to as "cashmere,” in the West, is one of the most valuable cultural artifacts Kashmir has offered for centuries, and continues to be sought after. The fine pure pashmina has maintained its luxury status for centuries and is still a symbol of elegance in the international markets. The pashmina shawl is not just popular for its fiber, but also for the elegant embroidery stitched in myriad colors by skilled artisans. Despite this international acclaim, the pashmina artisans dwell in impoverished conditions and face the ever-growing challenges of power looms. This research article is a study of the social and economic barriers that contribute to the dire living conditions of the active Kashmiri pashmina artisans. Along with examining the deteriorating work condition of the artisans, this paper also looks at how these circumstances have a long-lasting impact on the pashmina shawl industry, thus leading to the degradation of an art form altogether. Finally, this paper studies the declining living conditions of the pashmina artisans by analyzing the data collected through a qualitative study incorporating cultural mapping tools like interviews, personal narratives, and literature review. The sample for the study was collected from Kashmir Haat, Srinagar, Kashmir by the researcher through interviews and discussions.

Keywords:

• Kashmir pashmina artisans
• Kashmir art and craft
• Kashmir haat
• embroidery
• cashmere
• narratives

Acknowledgements

The authors extend their gratitude to all the Kashmir pashmina artisans at Kashmir Haat for sharing their stories and views. The authors also thank Christ (Deemed to be University) and Fr. Joseph Varghese (Director of the Research) for support.

Additional information

Notes on contributors

Taskeen Bhat

Taskeen Bhat is a research scholar in the Department of English and Cultural studies. Her research interests include studying Material culture, Narratives in textiles, Memory and Visual ethnography. [email protected]

Shobana Mathews

Shobana Mathews is a Professor and Heads the Department of English and Cultural Studies at CHRIST (Deemed to be University) Bengaluru, India. Her research interests lie in the field of Spatiality, Sound, Textuality, and Esthetics. [email protected]